teamLab Planets TOKYO
It’s been a top tourist destination for a couple years. Now I understand why.
It’s a place that is “out of space, out of time.”
It was quite a fun experience.
Lunch: UZU TOKYO
The Tokyo shop's exclusive vegan miso ramen has a smooth, delightful taste. Surprisingly, it perfectly complemented the enchanting atmosphere, letting me enjoy the art while having a meal.
teamLab Planets TOKYO
Now this is a must-see part of Tokyo's modern side! The installation art by teamLab in Toyosu, in the middle of Tokyo Bay, was scheduled to conclude at the end of 2023, but has been extended until at least 2027. In addition to the original koi fish made of light that swim in real water and the rain hall with mirrors and LEDs, recent installations have also been added, such as a naturally-lit hallway with orchids that float unrealistically.
Lunch: UZU TOKYO
I was so surprised here! This friendly, vegan ramen shop is a direct extension of the exhibition room at teamLab Planets. At this restaurant I enjoyed the exquisite soup in pleasant, dim light that illuminated only the bowl of ramen.
40 minutes by train (non-JR lines)
Nezu Museum
One step away from a very touristy spot, the Nezu Museum is the perfect embodiment of the love of tradition and nature that we appreciate in Japan.
Nezu Museum
The Nezu museum houses a rich collection of art and objects from all eras of Japan. But that's not all -- the collection dates back to China's bronze age, and you can also admire artifacts from around 3,000 years ago. Every time the exhibition changes, you can discover art from a wide variety of genres. The museum also has a wonderful traditional garden.
40 minutes by train (non-JR lines)
Traditional Tea Ceremony Experience Chazen
We enjoyed the short version of the tea ceremony with a very enthusiastic teacher.
She was very accommodating, so it’s also compatible with bigger groups upon reservation.
Dinner: Ginza Kashiwa
Awesome view, very wide selection of yakitori choices, and tasty.
Accommodation: Daiwa Roynet Hotel GINZA PREMIER
The hotel is very well placed, super clean, and the staff are fluent in English and very helpful. The breakfast has some original items like the “potato salad.”
Traditional Tea Ceremony Experience Chazen
I then made my way to this small building next to Kabukiza, east of central Ginza, where we had the opportunity to experience the elegant art in a 45-minute tea ceremony by a dedicated tea master, Rie Takada.
Dinner: Ginza Kashiwa
Next, we ended this fulfilling day with yakitori chicken skewers in a calm and elegant space overlooking a view illuminated by the lights of Ginza. However, this was not just your ordinary, average chicken – we were lucky enough to indulge in the taste of Hinai chicken from Akita Prefecture, which is one of Japan's three major varieties of local chickens.
Accommodation: Daiwa Roynet Hotel GINZA PREMIER
Daiwa Roynet Hotel GINZA PREMIER
Our hotel, Daiwa Roynet Hotel GINZA PREMIER, is comfortably and ideally located in the heart of Ginza, and our rooms are larger than average.
50 minutes by train (non-JR lines)
90 minutes by plane (ANA) Show details
Traveling by plane makes it quite fast to reach the region. It’s definitely an option to keep an eye on. ANA is my favorite company, and the service is always top notch.
Flying on ANA flights from Haneda airport is very comfortable, and Haneda airport is also very close to central Tokyo. In less than an hour and a half, we arrived in Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, in the Shikoku region, which is also home to some of the most popular hot springs in Japan.
Lunch: Dogo no Machiya
It’s a very nice place, I loved the atmosphere of the whole gallery.
The sake and beer brewery “Mizuguchi Shuzo” was also a very good visit. They had great explanations, amazing packaging, and the bar/cafe is very cozy and heartful.
Dogo Hot Spring
It’s beautiful, and the link to Hayao Miyazaki’s most famous movie, Spirited Away, makes a very cool side story. I was happy to learn that it’ll reopen to the public in July 2024.
Accommodation: Funaya
It is an extremely luxurious inn. I could feel the traditional Japanese atmosphere from the past. The suite in which I stayed has both Japanese-style and Western-style rooms. I could also experience Japan through the hot springs and the garden. The art displayed inside the inn was really intriguing.
Lunch: Dogo no Machiya
Located on the shop-lined arcade leading to Dogo Onsen, this restaurant serves delicious hamburgers in an old-fashioned style.
Dogo Hot Spring
The main building of Dogo Onsen's Tama-no-Yu bath, which is currently open, has undergone conservation and repair work. (Now it's ready for another thousand or two thousand years of guests relaxing!). Although the entire facility has not yet reopened (the full reopening is scheduled for July 2024), we had the good fortune to soak in the Asuka-no-Yu bath, which is reminiscent of Japan's Asuka period (593 to 710). The surrounding area is also used as a setting for contemporary art installations. (The art at the Asuka-no-Yu bath will be there until February 2024).
Accommodation: Funaya
I spent the night at Funaya, one of the most popular ryokan inns in Dogo Onsen. Funaya is also home to a collection of art and paintings. Dinner was delicious, and the bath at night was wonderful!
70 minutes by car
Shimanami Kaido
It was a real pleasure to cycle along the Shimanami Kaido. It made me want to cycle even more. The facilities are great, and the idea of being able to leave the bicycle in another terminal is very convenient. And the views were breathtaking.
Lunch: Yoshiumi Ikiikikan restaurant
Another place that hit the spot perfectly.
Firstly, the location is just perfect, in a small harbor with a beautiful view. Secondly the meal was great, very affordable, and the staff speaks English. And lastly, there was a small shop linked to the restaurant, with a nice range of local products.
Shimanami Kaido
Today, it's sports time. This morning we went on a bike ride on the first leg of the Shimannami Kaido cycling route in Imabari on an amazing Giant road bike. Beyond the big bridge that's supporting us and under the clear skies, there is only blue sea, sandy beaches, and small islands covered with pine trees.
Lunch: Yoshiumi Ikiikikan restaurant
This restaurant on Oshima was one of the most notable restaurants that I've had lunch at during my years in Japan. It has a large hall overlooking the wharf, where you can enjoy a variety of Japanese dishes made with local ingredients, all at very reasonable prices.
60 minutes by car
Imabari Castle
I have a variety of feelings about the Imabari Castle. The location is amazing and is one of the best castle views. The outside is also very great and the history of the castle itself is quite interesting.
Towel Museum
It was cool to see the towels being treated as art pieces.
The Towel Museum even had exhibitions featuring Disney and Moomin stuff.
I could see high-quality products with designs from Imabari, which is a source of pride for Japan.
Imabari Castle
After a filling lunch, we went on a cultural tour of the restored Imabari Castle, which is one of three sea castles in modern Japan. Originally, this castle faced directly onto a beach!
Towel Museum
The towels themselves are works of art in this large museum, and some of them are even licensed creations that feature popular characters such as Moomin and Disney characters.
Dinner: Shunsai Shubo Mitsukiya (Saijo City)
The izakaya was great with many dishes made using local ingredients. It had a wide variety of drinks, including sake and fruit liquors.
I could really feel the local vibe there.
Accommodation: ITOMACHI HOTEL 0
It was an incredible place.
The design is of course amazing, but the whole place embraces the concept of zero energy.
And an important point to me was that the coffee was excellent.
Dinner: Shunsai Shubo Mitsukiya (Saijo City)
For dinner tonight we immersed ourselves in the fun atmosphere of a rural izakaya tavern, with drinks and dishes made from local ingredients.
Accommodation: ITOMACHI HOTEL 0
This beautiful hotel, designed by architect Kengo Kuma himself, is the first "zero energy" hotel in Japan to receive ZEB certification from the Ministry of the Environment. The hotel reduces its energy consumption and then produces more energy to compensate for what it does consume. It is designed around the "Uchinuki" spring, the water source that carries energy to the site.
120 minutes by train(JR Shikoku; the Limited Express Ishizuchi) Show details
60 minutes by ferry
Depending on where you sit, you may be able to enjoy a short view of Sanuki Fuji (Mount Iino), and overall, the view from the train windows is gorgeous.
Lunch (boxed meal)
They were very high end bento. Other than the bento itself, the ferry was smooth and the view is amazing. It was definitely worth sitting on the aisle side.
On the following day, we departed from Saijo by boarding the limited express "Ishizuchi" train from the main station. The "Ishizuchi" train is named after the highest peak in the Shikoku region. As with all Japanese trains that offer reservations, you can enjoy a comfortable journey while enjoying panoramic views of the beautiful countryside of this part of Japan. Afterwards, we took a ferry ride – that felt like a Mediterranean cruise – from Takamatsu to Naoshima.
Lunch (boxed meal)
There's truly something special about eating a bento boxed lunch that makes you feel like a local as you savor the taste of the local ingredients.
Ritsurin Garden
The park is amazing, and so easy to access. There is a lot of scenery to enjoy, with hundreds of bridges across the whole park.
The Japanese boat ride experience is very nice and provided a new point of view.
Lunch: Yamadaya
The udon was great. It’s impressive that you can enjoy well-priced, high-quality meals in such a huge place. I have to double check the accessibility when walking / by bus.
Dinner: Steak House Ichigo
This was one of the best places I could eat meat in all the places I visited in Japan. The food was really amazing. The portions were generous and the meat was high quality. The little “bonus touch” was the heated stone that used volcanic rock. It’s a great idea and a nice story.
Accommodation：JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu
The location was good, as it was right by the JR station. The room had an excellent view, overlooking the whole city of Takamatsu City. I could have a good rest and prepare for the next day's journey.
Ritsurin Garden
Up until now, I had never visited the legendary Ritsurin Park, a must-see garden in Takamatsu. After drinking some matcha green tea, strolling through the long, winding paths, and taking a boat ride, I had only one wish: "I want to come here again!"
Lunch: Yamadaya
Kagawa's specialty is its famous udon noodles. They are springy, supple, perfectly cooked, hearty, and wonderfully garnished, which is to say, impeccable. This popular dish can also be enjoyed for the equivalent of only a few euros!
Dinner: Steak House Ichigo
Ichigo is a yakiniku grilled beef restaurant, and here we were treated to incredible "olive beef," which comes from cows that are raised on a diet of olives.
Accommodation：JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu
This large Western-style hotel is halfway between the train station and the ferry terminal, which makes it ideally positioned for exploring both Takamatsu and the surrounding islands.
20 minutes by car
30 minutes by high speed passenger boat
Chichu Art Museum
It’s one of the few museums that was built for a very specific purpose. Not as a general museum, but to fit a specific collection, in a specific place. It’s a piece of art by itself. And the Monet works inside are gorgeous.
ANDO MUSEUM
The ANDO MUSEUM is already a world famous place, but it’s only when visiting it that you can grasp the weight of the place. It’s amazing. But it’s not just the museum, it’s the whole island and even the whole Triennale working together perfectly.
Chichu Art Museum
Chichu Art Museum: The Chichu Art Museum is architect Tadao Ando's masterpiece on Naoshima. The geometric museum is nestled underground in an expansive Mediterranean hillside, and done so in a way that doesn't disturb the surrounding landscape. The building uses mostly natural light inside, and Monet's paintings are illuminated by shadows from the sunlight.
ANDO MUSEUM
The building that was once behind this wall is no longer there, and instead, on the original foundation, is a subterranean museum that is made entirely of concrete. The site is dedicated to Tadao Ando, who played an important role in Naoshima's development.
15 minutes by foot
Benesse House
I had high expectations from this world famous place and I was not disappointed.
Scenery: the view is amazing, and the hotel is like a hidden gem alongside the hill. And the view from the terrasse is breath taking. I woke up at 5am to see the sunrise and it was beautiful.
Room: The bedroom was perfectly spacious and the bed was great.
The rooms also had art pieces, making it a comfortable and welcoming space.
Food: We ate at the terrasse restaurant. It’s a high end place. The food is great, both for dinner and for breakfast. Some very original meals were also prepared. I was glad I was able to make even minute changes.
Benesse House
Benesse House offers impeccably designed accommodations on Naoshima. The French dinners are as sophisticated as the surrounding architecture, and the ciabatta is among the best that I've ever eaten.
60 minutes by high speed passenger boat
Inujima
Inujima has all sorts of fascinating venues, including the Inujima Seirensho Art Museum, which preserves and repurposes the remains of a copper refinery, and the Inujima “Art House Project” developed by artistic director Yuko Hasegawa and architect Kazuyo Sejima in a local village. From the historical perspective of a factory turned into an art museum, to modern art utilizing nature, it’s a really great place that lets you get out of the busy rhythm of daily life.
Inujima
Inujima has permanent art installations, the Inujima Seirensho Art Museum and the Inujima Art House Project, and both are must-see stops. The Inujima Art House Project in particular was amazing, with extremely sophisticated and renovated village houses spread out across a surreal landscape.
30 minutes by ferry
40 minutes by car
Dinner: Toriyoshi Ekimae Main Store
It’s a great izakaya. Very Japanese.
The tsukune were particularly tasty.
Accommodation: Hotel Granvia Okayama
The Hotel Granvia is a relaxing space that makes lavish use of materials and history of Okayama in the design of the rooms and amenities. From the usage of Kurashiki jeans to designs relating to Okayama or referencing the history of Okayama, it’s great. There are also lots of restaurants of various types. The lounge on the top floor regularly hosts jazz concerts, adding a touch of elegance to stays. The facilities also include a luxurious heated pool for guests to enjoy. Be sure to check the opening hours before using it.
Dinner: Toriyoshi Ekimae Main Store
At this popular restaurant in downtown Okayama, the waiters glide slalom-like between the tables. This is a specialty store focusing on chicken and fish, and they also have a variety of alcoholic beverages to choose from.
Accommodation: Hotel Granvia Okayama
Hotel Granvia Okayama is located in front of Okayama Station and is directly connected to JR Okayama Station. From the wide variety of available rooms, you are sure to find one that suits you. If you have a room on one of the premium floors, then you can also use the pool and bar. Nightly jazz concerts are also held.
Okayama Korakuen Garden
I have to digress a bit here. The garden was amazing of course, but what made it even better was the explanation from our guide. He had infinite knowledge and passion about the Korakuen Garden. After a short visit, I feel like I’ve been to this garden 10 times already. It was very informative, and probably my favorite visit/activity apart from the cycling.
Okayama Castle
Okayama Castle stood tall and impressive, giving off a strong sense of tradition and history. It was obvious that the recent renovations had made it a hotspot, with lots of tourists around. The view of Okayama Castle from Ujo Park, surrounded by all those historic buildings, was just gorgeous, blending in perfectly with the natural beauty of the area.
Lunch: Shabu-shabu Sukiyaki Hitori Nabe Megu
Once again, the local meat was amazing. I love that we were presented with the beef cuts before eating them. We can even watch the owner slice the beef part near the entrance. We tested two different soups for the shabu shabu and sukiyaki, and both were rich and deep.
Okayama Korakuen Garden
Following on from Ritsurin Park in Takamatsu, at Okayama Korakuen Garden we once again immersed ourselves in the sophisticated art of Japanese gardens. With the grassy slopes and the castle in the background, I was really surprised by the sense of unity here.
Okayama Castle
This large, restored castle has just had an interior renovation, and showcases a breathtaking black and gold museography. The castle is located right next to Okayama Korakuen Garden, so visiting both of them together makes for the perfect excursion.
Lunch: Shabu-shabu Sukiyaki Hitori Nabe Megu
This restaurant serves thinly sliced and boiled chiyagyu, a type of wagyu beef, which made for an unforgettable dining experience! This meat is also almost impossible to obtain outside of Okayama.
30 minutes by train (JR West) Show details
Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter
Morita Shuzou
It’s a nice brewery. It had some very old items, making it a nice stop for sake enthusiast.
UKIYO-E KURASHIKI
There was an amazing collection. This is a period French tourists love, so it is extremely attractive. And the collection is huge.
Kurashiki Momoko
Eating a peach parfait is mandatory when visiting Kurashiki. This is the best place to enjoy it.
Shopping streets
There were lots of good shops, and jeans of high quality and appropriate prices. When shopping, please note that some establishments only accept cash.
Riverboat Rides
Strolling around was enjoyable, but taking a leisurely boat ride to soak in the historical scenery was a great experience. The straw-hatted boatmen slowly rowing the boats added to the atmosphere. It was the perfect way to wrap up a day of sightseeing.
Dinner: Homemade Soba Trattoria Takenoya
I love dad jokes, so I want to say it was “sobarashi.” The food was good, the place felt authentic and the atmosphere was really cozy.
Accommodation: Toutou
What a great concept. Renovating old warehouses with this taste and turning them into rentable locations is a great idea.
All the places were fully equipped, and they had top-quality futons. I slept like a baby.
Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter
Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter never disappoints. This was my second visit here, and I really enjoy the well-preserved black and white warehouses. Afterwards, we had peach parfaits to enjoy one of Okayama's specialties.
Dinner: Homemade Soba Trattoria Takenoya
The soba here is made with buckwheat flour from the famous Hiruzen region, and, as you enjoy variations on typical Japanese cuisine, you'll come to understand why we chose to dine in the warm atmosphere of this beautifully renovated storehouse.
Accommodation: Toutou
In Japanese, "Toutou" refers to the current in a river or to the continuous flow of time. The concept here is an art gallery that makes use of an old building, and of an inn that has been renovated from a townhouse or storehouse and that incorporates handicrafts from local artists who have set up shop here and there in Kurashiki. Spending the night here will not only make you feel like you have traveled back in time, but will also immerse you in an atmosphere of rustic sophistication.
210 minutes by train (JR West) Show details
Taking the bullet train is always satisfying. It’s fast, reliable, the seats are comfortable, and we have charging plugs almost everywhere.
After getting on the Shinkansen, we return to Tokyo in just over three hours. Time passes so quickly on the comfortable Shinkansen as you travel through the scenery of Japan.
There are so many amazing places to visit in Japan. It’s a pity that so many tourists focus on so few places.
This trip went beyond my expectations. I was prepared to see nice art spots, and indeed I saw a lot of art and cultural places, but I also saw them blending in with the daily life of Japanese citizens. And I’m confident these are the kinds of places that tourists will love.
This week-long trip from Tokyo was a dive into the world of Japanese art. Some of the places are old and almost unchanged, some of them are contemporary, and some of them are the result of folk traditions or of Japanese landscapes that serve as the setting for modern creations. I hadn't expected such depth in the regions that we visited, but Ehime, Kagawa, and Okayama, all of which are within easy reach of Tokyo, showed me how Japan is full of treasures – not just in the capital, but all throughout the country.
