EXPERIENCE PAST AND FUTURE

We walked from Hamamatsucho Station to Tokyo Tower on a crisp, early autumn morning and were pointed to the Shiba Daimon Gate. Before Tokyo Tower comes into view, one is confronted by the ancient Zojo-ji Temple. If we had had the time, it would have been nice to explore Zojo-ji Temple.

It was my first time to Tokyo Tower. I thought that the audio guide was very good, and I enjoyed the view from the tower as it was a relatively clear day.

We loved the food and atmosphere at TOKYO SHIBA TOFUYA UKAI. Stepping through its doorway was like entering another world; unimaginable considering that the sprawling compound was right in the middle of prime city space. Every dish of our course at Tofuya Ukai was meticulously prepared and the service was impeccable. It was as if our hostess had eyes inside our private room, because she could guess exactly when we were ready for the next course. We enjoyed admiring the beautiful garden from our private room and went for a delightful stroll after lunch. We spent 2h inside Tofuya Ukai and later on, at the end of the day, felt that it was the best 2h of the entire day.

The architecture of Omotesando Hills and the adjoining shopping complex were interesting, but the highlight of our visit to Omotesando would be the unplanned rest stop at Bills Tokyo café at Omohara no Mori. Because I had heard so much about the hotcakes at Bills, I insisted that we order one serving of the ricotta cheese hotcakes to share. The tall, fluffy hotcakes oozed with soft ricotta cheese and were paired perfectly with maple syrup and sliced bananas. After hotcakes, we adjourned to the rooftop garden, located in the same building, to soak in the relaxing atmosphere and take more pictures.

Our guides explained to us that Yoyogi Park had been the Olympic Village when Tokyo had last hosted the Summer Olympics in 1964. We walked past expanses of greenery and took pictures at the pond. Before we went to Yoyogi Park, we had made a detour to Takeshita Street, where we saw a bit of Japanese youth street culture..

The food at Shabu-shabu Fujikawa was nutritious and just the right meal to end our day of overeating. The location was convenient as it was close to our hotel and the train station. It offered privacy and we could enjoy our conversation with each other.

This hotel offers clean rooms and very pleasant service. I liked that it provided toiletries and a very decent breakfast buffet. I enjoyed my stay there.

The flight to Tottori departed on time. The aircraft was clean and the service was attentive, with flight attendants often offering drinks to allow passengers to stay comfortable. When we got to Tottori Airport, we were pleasantly surprised that it sported a Conan the Detective theme. We had fun posing for pictures at the trick-art installation.

The meal at Wakoin was one of the best meals during the trip. We loved every single dish on the table. My favourite was the savoury o-dango which was served at the beginning of the meal. I am still thinking of that taste! The firm, yet chewy, o-dango absorbed the umami sauce it had been resting in and made every bite such a pleasure. It was difficult not to eat it quickly because it was so good. As we ate our food, seated Japanese style in Wakoin Temple, we listened to the head monk recount the history of the area, including Misasa, which built anticipation for not just our climb, but also for the evening that awaited us.

The climb was truly exhilarating and humbling at the same time. I was reminded of the great forest in the Studio Ghibli animation My Neighbour Totoro. Along the way, we appreciated the breathtaking scenery and the lengths devotees have gone to to conserve the ancient monuments onsite. As we hiked up a stretch of what I thought to be the most difficult part of the climb, our guide made us chant: “San-ge, san-ge, rokkon shojo.” By the time we reached Sanbutsuji, I did feel purified, having focused all my energies and perceptions on one task alone.

Dinner was served at a private room in the restaurant on the second floor of the Izanro Iwasaki ryokan. We went for dinner after a dip in the hot springs and were still wearing yukata when we poured each other sake. The food was sumptuous and my favourite dish of all was the chawanmushi. The server was attentive and we enjoyed our meal.

My room at Izanro Iwasaki ryokan was superb. The very same hostess who served us at dinner showed me to my room and even made me tea before leaving. I loved the spaciousness of the room and the fact that there were two sets of yukata inside the cupboard. I enjoyed the onsen very much. I loved that there were all sorts of toiletries available at the onsen for our use. The layout of both hot springs (for men and women) was interesting.

This was a delightful excursion. We managed to pick 20th Century pears and we found out the difference between ones that grow nearer to the tree trunk and ones that grow farther away from it–the former is sweeter and softer, and the latter is less sweet, but crunchier.

The papermaking experience was fun and interesting and we got to see and purchase some beautiful paper products from the shop.

Kaiyotei was a superb place which showcased the seafood of Tottori. The ambience of the restaurant was very Japanese and we sat on tatami mats in a private room which had a partial view of the sea. The main highlight of the food we had that day was “odori shiro ika,” which was a white squid julienned into thin slices of sashimi while still alive. After we had feasted on the sashimi slices, the rest of the squid was sent back to the kitchen and made into tempura, which we also enjoyed.

The Sand Museum was a much riveting tourist attraction. The amount of detail and artistry which have gone into the Scandinavian-themed sculptures was simply spell-binding, and we spent a great deal of time admiring them.

Jinpukaku is a very picturesque house and quite unforgettable.

This teppanyaki was superlative because we had a chance to try the famous Tottori wagyu beef. The chef was extremely competent at preparing it and the result was melt-in-your mouth. The wine was good and everything else served that evening was delicious. We had a hearty meal.

The Tottori Green Hotel Morrison is a lodging most suitable for those who just need a comfortable place to stay the night.

The boat cruise was fun and rewarding, not just because of the beautiful scenery of the Uradome Coast, but also because of the seagulls that flew together with our boat for the prawn crackers we cast into the air. So, before one boards the cruise, it is highly recommended that one should buy one or two packets of prawn crackers! The clear weather meant blue skies and a good view of Sengan Matsushima, as well as other landforms carved by marine erosion. Afterward, we had a pear smoothie and a surprisingly good squid ink soft serve ice cream.

Mitakien was one of my favourite spots in Tottori. We were transposed to a different part of the great forest we had seen at Sanbutsuji. When the atmosphere at Sanbutsuji was solemn and sacred, Mitakien was of nostalgia and joyfulness. We were impressed by the smorgasbord of sansai cuisine that the staff had prepared from scratch early in the morning. After lunch, we strolled to the cafe located deeper in the woods and had a cup of tea/coffee as we admired the waterfall. I expect this place to be even more beautiful as the leaves change colour in late autumn. The crisp weather, cool temperature, and fresh air make the hours in Mitakien so easy to pass.

Ishitani Residence was gorgeous, from its grand timber pillars and beams, to its ornate garden, to the minute luxurious details of its interiors. There, we learned how traditional Japanese clans used to live and entertain. The Ishitani family is very generous to have shared (part of) their family home with the public.

Overall, I enjoyed the trip very much. I would highly recommend Tottori x Tokyo as a one-week trip for Singaporeans, whom, I am sure, would be delighted to learn that this is itinerary is not known to many yet. As foodies, Singaporeans would love to feast on Tottori wagyu and the fresh seafood. Tottori has much to offer, and I hope that other fellow Singaporeans will agree with me!